Installing a Timing Key on a Firecat., Instructions & Pics Enclosed. Options

[Nick]

INSTALLING A TIMING KEY ON A FIRECAT

Sled: 2003 Arctic Cat Firecat® F7 EFI
Product: Fett Brothers© Timing Key Purchased from The Outdoor Shop.
Key Specs: 2 degree key. -> (Large key for EFI sleds and Small key for carb models)
Beer: Miller Lite®
Time Estimate: 30 Minutes

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Step 1:
Remove exhaust system, including muffler. It is a good idea to make sure you organize the exhaust spring for re-assembly. That way they will be easier to install. They are all not the same size.



Step 2:
Remove recoil assembly. There are 4 bolts (10mm) that hold the cover on. A deep well socket will help the process, but is not needed.



Step 3:
Remove the recoil “pulley.” There are 3 bolts (14mm) that hold it on.



Step 4:
Remove the flywheel bolt (I forgot the size.) that bolts into the crankshaft. The use of an impact on this step is helpful but not needed.



Step 5:
With a flywheel puller (I used a modified SLP puller from The Outdoor Shop) or similar, remove flywheel. You need to first install the puller by threading the 3 supplied bolts that come with the flywheel puller into the flywheel. MAKE SURE YOU DO NO THREAD THE PULLER BOLTS TOO FAR INTO THE FLYWHEEL AS YOU COULD DAMAGE THE STATOR. Then snug the main bolt on the puller up to the crankshaft.




Step 6:
Use a 1 1/4” socket to make the puller do its job of pulling the flywheel off the stator and off the crankshaft. The use of an impact is VERY helpful but not needed. If not, be prepared to use a lot of force to break the flywheel loose. Remove flywheel and set aside.



Step 7:
Remove stock woodruff key (timing key). This step may sometime require a screwdriver and a hammer to get the stock key to free itself from the crankshaft. Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.



Step 8:
Install new timing key! Make sure you place the offset TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE SNOWMOBILE! If not, you will be retarding engine timing.



Step 9:
Reinstall flywheel ensuring new timing key is seated in the groove and in the keyway of flywheel. This step is VERY CRITICAL!!! The use a mirror will aid in the process depending on where your flywheel is set. You can also try and squeeze your head in there to take a peek, but there is not much room between the side panel and the frame.




Step 10:
Torque flywheel bolt to spec, and reinstall recoil pulley. Use a little BLUE Loctite® on bolts during reassembly; you’ll have that peace of mind while doing 110mph!!

Step 11:
Reinstall recoil and cover. Again Blue Loctite® is not needed but recommended.

Step 12:
Reinstall your exhaust pipe and then canister. It is easiest to install the canister before the pipe.

Step 13:
Fire up your sled and check for anything out of the ordinary.

<span style='font-size:8pt;line-height:100%'>NOTE: THE OFFSET FLYWHEEL KEY ADVANCES THE IGNITION WHICH WILL REQUIRE YOU TO RUN PREMIUM OR BETTER PUMP FUEL. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN DETONATION AND SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE.</span>

[sledsearcher]

I don't know Nick awful lot of dirt and exhaust residue on those belly pans buddy...You couldn't atleast clean it before you took the pics? lol Very nice write up, I am sure many people will find it very useful!

The loctite of the recoil bolts is a great idea...those bolts rattling out is very common problem with Fcats.

Also you guys/gals might want check your recoil rope and replace as necessary...pull starting a sled and having the handle come off in your hand on the side of the trail is NO FUN... I recommend replacing it with Spectra mountain climbing rope, or just replace with std recoil rope and work on the routing of the wire so that it does not touch metal and Fray...If you look at Nick's pics you can see a black tube, that is Dan's (ODS) recoil fix...good idea!

Nice write up Nick, too bad Joel had to do all the wrenching for yah!

Mike

Edit: This is one of the best bang for the buck mods for any "stock" sled...you may want to invest in EGT's after installing as 6200-7000 RPM's these sleds like to get awful hot...just a precaution but I do recommend.

[greensled]

Come on Nick!!!!!!!! Wheres the credit when the credit's due???????????? Who's hands are those gettin dirty?? (Certainly not yours )Whoever it is he's RIPPED, I wouldn't mess with him........ How many beer's??

[3x]

Come on Nick!!!!!!!! Wheres the credit when the credit's due???????????? Who's hands are those gettin dirty???? (Certainly not yours ) How many beer's??

If you guys were past a 6 pack between you when you put that key in, God help that Firecat!

[LittleCat]

Good write-up Nick. Well done.

[Nick]

Come on Nick!!!!!!!! Wheres the credit when the credit's due???????????? Who's hands are those gettin dirty?? (Certainly not yours )Whoever it is he's RIPPED, I wouldn't mess with him........ How many beer's??

Yea, I forgot to mention you helped out a bit. Besides, someone had to take the pics and make sure the belly pan monster didn't visit for too long.

Thanks Joel for all your help. Without you I wouldn't have been able fill up my recycling bin.

Nick

[ODS Dan]

no mention of the 8 phone calls to me during the whole fiasco..
I fixed it read the NEW install

[sledsearcher]

[Nick]

no mention of the 8 phone calls to me during the whole fiasco..
I fixed it read the NEW install

Na, we just had to make sure you were not sleeping. Lori is tired of doing all the work.

[jamiec]

Hey guy's whats the gain with the timing key and is it safe over the long haul also it's hard to tell the quallity of the fuel up north so do you take an octane booster with you when riding? Thanks guys. Great post!

[Nick]

Hey guy's whats the gain with the timing key and is it safe over the long haul also it's hard to tell the quallity of the fuel up north so do you take an octane booster with you when riding? Thanks guys. Great post!

Well, it has been proven that the keys are safe on the F-cats if you run a higher octane fuel. The people that are getting into trouble are the peeps running too big of key on their F8' or F9's. That is where the issues are at. I have heard of several people with keys in their F7's and had a bunch of success as well as reliability.

If you really want every pony squeezed from your mill, than dyno testing with the biggest key is the best option. I ran a 2* just to be safe and reliable.

[krellheat]

I have a concern of burning down my engine on my EFI F7 before changine the key.

Is it required to always run higher octane and what level? 90, 93?

Can I use octane booster should no hightest gas be available?

BMP has a 2.5*, ODS has the 2*. Which more conservative?

And will I void my 4-year warranty?

Felix

[Nick]

I have a concern of burning down my engine on my EFI F7 before changine the key.

Is it required to always run higher octane and what level? 90, 93?

Can I use octane booster should no hightest gas be available?

BMP has a 2.5*, ODS has the 2*. Which more conservative?

And will I void my 4-year warranty?

Felix

Felix,

First off....it will void your warranty. So, unless you have a great dealer, you may be outta luck.

I am not sure about the octane booster, but either Dan (ODS) or Looneytune can chime in on this one. I would run highest octane available at the pump when you fill up.

The 2* key is more conservative. You will need the larger key for your EFI.

Hope that helps,
Nick

[avrg.joe]

Hey guy's whats the gain with the timing key and is it safe over the long haul also it's hard to tell the quallity of the fuel up north so do you take an octane booster with you when riding? Thanks guys. Great post!

I put in a 2 deg. key about 1,400 miles ago, and run nothing but regular gas and have had no issues. I'm told if you go to a 3 degree key, premium should be used. The gains are noticeable, mostly bottom through midrange. Probably the cheapest HP you can buy.

Nice write-up Nick. I hope you cleaned up that belly pan,,,Yuk!

[krellheat]

Thanks Nick and to everyone else who posts on this forum.

BTW: Can I do this also to 4-strokers?

Felix