Changing Track on Firecat, and most sleds Options

[firecatsrt]

This is a track swap for an 03 firecat F5, but will work with most sleds.

Start by loosening your track. use the big wrench in your tool kit to loosen the large nut on the rear shaft, then loosen from the ends of the rails so that the rear wheels loosen their tension on the track.




Then remove the 9/16" front and rear bolts that hold your rear suspension in. Do the rear first unscrewing both a little at a time making sure they come out close to the same time or you will have a hard time doing it one at a time as the shaft will spin freely not allowing you to unscrew the bolt. The front arms have nuts on the back side that you have to hold while unscrewing the bolts.

front hole, located in foot well.


rear hole, located in tunnel support bracket.


now you can pull your suspension out carefully.


Now that you have the rear suspension out we can work under the hood.

Start by removing your hood, pipe, can, and clutches. (dont have to do primary, but it gives you more room...



Now, on the can side, begin by draining the chaincase. Pictured in the diagram, #11 is a drain plug located inside your tunnel just below the driveshaft. Undo this bolt and drain the fluid, or you can drain it by removing your chaincase cover. there should be 6 1/2" bolts holding it on. Put a rag under it to catch the oil.





Unscrew the 9/16" chain tensioner bolt approx 1/2" so the chain is nice and loose.



Lock your brake on and unscrew the 3/4" nuts that hold the 2 gears on. Note the bottom gear and that the flat side is out, the other side has a "nub" on it... as pictured in 2nd pic. pull the gears and chain off.





Now you can take the bearing cup and o-ring off by unscrewing the 3 1/2" nuts that hold it on.



Now, on the clutch side, remove the 3 1/2" nuts that hold the speed sensor on and carefully tap the bolts out and pull the speed sensor off to the side.



Grab the driveshaft from underneath the sled and wiggle it so that the shaft comes out of the clutch side and into the chaincase, you can angle it and gently tap the bearing off the end of the chaincase side of the shaft and take the driveshaft out at an angle.



You can now take your track off.

When putting a track on, make note of the arrows on the track as to which direction it was designed to spin and set it under the sled with them facing in the correct direction.



To reinstall, start by putting the driveshaft back in, bearing on the chaincase side and then o-ring, then cup. bolt the cup on and go to the clutch side, hold the bearing cup in place and place the speed sensor on the bolts (can be a tough squeeze if you have short arms) tighten the bolts on the speed sensor.

Put the chain and gears on as one piece noting the direction of the "nub" when reinstalling. Tighten the 3/4" nuts on the gears. Finger tighten the chain tensioner and tighten the jamb nut so it can't back out. Put chaincase cover on and fill to the full line on the dipstick. Put pipe, can, clutches, and hood back on.

Put rear suspension back in, starting with the front bolts, then the rear bolts (much easier if you get the tension off the rear springs). Tighten the track, and you are on your way.

[ArcticBoy]

Mikey,

Speaking of removing the chaincase cover and placing a rag underneath to catch the oil.....

Didn't you know that there is oil drain plug underneath to drain out before taking the chaincase off ?.

MasterF6 and I worked on mine a couple of weeks ago just like you described in this thread. Took me about 8 hours to finish on the F7's. Great experience for me as I've never done it myself.

Another thought...Purchase the 4 wheel kit from GNR since it's alot easier to install on my Sno-Pro much rather than the factory settings cuz I had tough time putting back the two wheel kit on the Nightfire.

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[firecatsrt]

now i have to look at my sled to check for that drain... i never saw one... all i have on my cover is a fill hole and the dipstick hole. but i do have a trick to change gears and chain without draining or spilling any oil.

[ArcticBoy]

now i have to look at my sled to check for that drain... i never saw one...

All you have to do is position yourself underneath the sled's driveshaft area and you'd find the drain plug where the chaincase is.

[geberhard]

The drain plug is in the tunnel.

[firecatsrt]

all fixed, and even added a diagram... thanks for the input guys.

MasterF6 and I worked on mine a couple of weeks ago just like you described in this thread. Took me about 8 hours to finish on the F7's. Great experience for me as I've never done it myself. 

8 hours isnt bad if you havent done it at all. I think i have the whole thing down to about 4 to do it myself now, but i have done it a few times now. the hardest thing to do by yourself is putting the rear suspension back in by yourself, everything else is fairly easy as long as you take your time. This is definitely something anyone can do with the right tools, if you dont pull your primary clutch all you will need is your basic ratchet set and wrenches.

[ArcticBoy]

....the hardest thing to do by yourself is putting the rear suspension back in by yourself, everything else is fairly easy as long as you take your time.

I'll have to admit you're absolutely correct on this. Talked it over with Dusty on how hard it is to put it on alone especially with the studs and the total weight.

[firecatsrt]

try it with carpet in your garage... studs dont like to slide to well on carpet...

[ArcticBoy]

try it with carpet in your garage... studs dont like to slide to well on carpet...

Carpet ??. Good Idea....Dusty and I thought it'd be neat if we put 2" x 8", 4' long underneath the studded track and jack it up with floor jack.

[Bluebear]

all fixed, and even added a diagram...  thanks for the input guys.

MasterF6 and I worked on mine a couple of weeks ago just like you described in this thread. Took me about 8 hours to finish on the F7's. Great experience for me as I've never done it myself. 

8 hours isnt bad if you havent done it at all. I think i have the whole thing down to about 4 to do it myself now, but i have done it a few times now. the hardest thing to do by yourself is putting the rear suspension back in by yourself, everything else is fairly easy as long as you take your time. This is definitely something anyone can do with the right tools, if you dont pull your primary clutch all you will need is your basic ratchet set and wrenches.

Nice write up!!

4 hours to change a track? I think it takes me about an hour to do it the 'right way' less if I shortcut it.

Now, someone post how to change a track with the DD.

[ArcticBoy]

4 hours to change a track?   

Not just the track. Doesn't take one hour to do everything as I don't believe you unless you got the Magical Powers.

Worked on both F7's by removing suspensions, drain the fluids out, replaced all of the driveshaft bearings with O-Rings, filled the chaincase up with fluids, installed 4 wheel kit from GNR and put the suspensions right back in. I was kinda slow on the first F7 then got better on the second F7. All of it for the first time for me since I'm not a mechanic guru.

[firecatsrt]

the 4 hrs also includes putting my suspension back together... (taking out extra wheels, putting shock back in, etc) switching my clutching over to winter stuff and rejetting which is not fun on this sled. so i probably could do just the track swap in 2 hrs. it isnt too technical where the average person cant do it themselves with a little time.

[calebjsdad]

Very nice write-up! All I have to say is carpet in your garage is awesome. But studs do like to grab it.

[jimster]

Thanks for the write-up as well for the pics!! .....Very self explanatory the way you said it..

[mzabF7]

[quote=Bluebear,Nov 3 2005, 03:48 AM]
[quote=firecatsrt,Nov 1 2005, 12:47 PM]all fixed, and even added a diagram... thanks for the input guys.
4 hours to change a track? I think it takes me about an hour to do it the 'right way' less if I shortcut it.

Now, someone post how to change a track with the DD.

[/quote]
HAHA just did mine.. takes about a hour... the brake rotor can be a MF to get off though... I gave up on it and just slid the track out the left side were the DD was...