First off.. You can only read this if you purchased one from me !!! so stop now..
secondly, it does go the same for just cleaning and normal assembly and disassembly. Any worn or broken pieces should be replaced now. Inspect them carefully.. I also recommend replacing whole clutch around 4-5000 miles, for better results. Rebuilding them are more costly.
1) Take off the belt
2) Remove the secondary(large clutch) , by taking out the 1/2" bolt and account for position and quantity of spacers, washers etc.... clutch slides off. if not you may need to spray penetrating oil in the hole and let set for a while..
3) Take off primary clutch - use a 1/2" 12 point socket and remove bolt. with pry bar in between two parts of the clutch NOT where the spider or buttons slide ..this will hold the clutch.
4) Using the clutch puller, and I recommend an impact gun.. tighten the puller til it pops the clutch off.. (use a bit grease on threads and tip of puller) If no gun then use a breaker bar and tighten then tap the head of the puller and it will eventually pop off.. loosen and tighten a few times may be necessary.
5) Now on the bench put the seconadary clutch on a roll of duct tape. Remove the 3 nuts on the roller cover. Be careful the spring will have side and in and out pressure.. Now its off... replace the helix with new one.. replace the spring , by putting the end in the hole in the clutch first.. Then line the other end of the spring up in the middle hole of the cover. You will need to twist the cover about 30-60 degrees clockwise, so the spring has tension and lines up with the studs now. Put nuts on and slowly tighten each one seperately.
6) That ones done.
7) Primary now, on the bench remove the 6 or 9 bolts. Be careful again, the spring tension is strong on some.
8) Take off cover, mark, or note or find the alignment dots.. so you know to put the cover on the same way.
9) Remove spring
10) Loosen the 3 bolts to the cam arms .. slide out bolts.
11) Take shims and arms out.. Put the new arm in place.. start the bolt, while sliding the shims in position, on each side of cam arm.
12) Tighten cam arm nut and bolt using red loctite, just a tiny bit.. and not too tight. just til the bolt stops spinning in clutch freely.
13) Repeat for other cam arms.
14) Replace spring, seated properly, and line up cover correctly. Trick for this , put that duct tape roll in between the clutch to hold the clutch open, and while pushing in the center of the cover, start each cover bolt.
15) Now tighten the cover bolts slowly and evenly. til tight
16) Both clutches are ready to install again.
17) Slide secondary clutch on greased jackshaft
and replace all washers, spacers etc.. and snug up..
18) Put primary on crankshaft and torque to 55 ft lbs.
19) Replace belt.. and lift sled and run it through its shift.. look for binding, and clutch jumping.. if so replace belt and try again. never look directly over the clutches.
20) RIP IT UP...
I may have missed some tricks, that I just do unconsciously. I will update as I remember or post some of your own tricks here.
If you don't feel comfortable, please don't attempt this. This is only some general information.
How to install clutch kit
Nov 10 2003, 09:46 PM
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thanks dan, I think I will have to give it a try...
deflection adjuster 
Only thing I see controversial is the use of an impact gun. I always use an impact gun myself to pull the clutch but I've heard others warn against it saying it could "twist" the crank. Any thoughts on that or anybody have a bad experience using a impact gun? 
cold1 aka catman
), gentle little taps is all it usually takes (primary). 
